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Posted 20 hours ago

REDSHIFT ShockStop Suspension Seatpost for Bicycles

£9.9£99Clearance
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Best method: Use a pair of calipers to directly measure the diameter or take your bike to the local bike shop and they will be able to measure it for you. Lastly, we have air springs, which are sometimes used in telescopic seatposts. The main advantage is that you can adjust the spring stiffness to a higher degree of accuracy. Suspension Seatpost Designs

I also ran a suspension fork for this year’s event, and having a bit of front and rear compliance kept me fresh and comfortable, and allowed me to pedal through rough terrain. Deflection is the total movement that a seatpost will move after an impact. A seatpost with more deflection will reduce the fatigue on your body as it protects you from harder jolts like unexpected potholes or dirt road corrugations. It’ll also allow you to keep pedalling through particularly bumpy terrain.At half the weight (~300 grams) and half the travel (20mm) of most squishy posts, it performs closer to the best carbon seatposts available. It costs virtually the same as the Redshift, but again is a lot lighter. The downside is that you can't adjust it for rider weight to get that perfect ride feel. Conclusion In addition, linkage posts ensure that the saddle-to-pedal distance is (mostly) maintained when the seatpost is compressed. Telescopic seatposts move in a different plane to bump forces coming up from the rear wheel. I tested the Kinekt Active suspension seatpost recently, and while it was a very comfy solution, the ‘springiness’ was very apparent (no matter what setup I tried). A preload adjusting plug in the base of the seatpost tunes the suspension. Numbers one to five are printed within its thread pitch and relate to rider weight and the spring(s). Turn the preload plug to the required position and fit the post.

But the key difference to a carbon post is that the spring rate isn’t determined by how much exposed seatpost you have, allowing you to tune it perfectly to your body weight, using the five different elastomers available. John has been writing about bikes and cycling for over 30 years since discovering that people were mug enough to pay him for it rather than expecting him to do an honest day's work. Suspension seatpost are popular with endurance cyclists who are riding many hours per day and are looking for the extra comfort from the rough sections. You can go out and buy a new titanium or carbon gravel bike which will be super comfortable. But if you already have a modest bike but are looking for extra on bike comfort you don’t need to go out and buy a new bike. You can buy aftermarket suspension seatposts which work well to add extra comfort.It’s available to fit 27.2, 30.9, 31.6 seat tubes, uses USE's Duro single-bolt clamp and the post is fully serviceable. The post and head are machined from aluminium. The 27.2mm post weighs a claimed 455g. I don’t know if this is the effect of two springs working together or not but the feel changed for the better. There was no bottoming out and the suspension performance was quite noticeable. The saddle angle is retained throughout the cycle of travel, this is most certainly important given the amount of vertical compliance; should the front of your saddle suddenly gain 35mm more height than the rear you’d no doubt be looking discomfort in the face. A promise isn’t good enough for me, so let’s put it to the (vibration) test! The Different Suspension Seatpost Designs Suspension seatposts allow you to pedal while seated on terrain that normally requires standing up. Compared to a rigid post on the same bumpy climb, I find that my legs often feel fresher simply because I’m standing up less.

Due to the vertical flexibility of 35 mm, it is suitable for almost any type of bike with a seat tube inner diameter of 27.2 mm Bikes with a larger diameter can be adjusted with an optional reduction sleeve. Initially I really liked it, obvious benefits if and when you couldn't avoid a pothole or puddle etc. When engaged, the suspension linkage compresses a steel spring inside the post’s column that’s sandwiched in between two plastic spacers. All of these innards are compressed against a hollow plastic pipe that seats against a threaded preload screw at the bottom of the post. Redshift also includes a smaller, secondary internal spring to provide additional firmness, depending on your desired ride feel. The photo sequence above shows me sitting on it set up out of the box—main spring only, with preload somewhere in the middle—with its sag affected by only my weight (about 175lbs). The best way I can describe spring seatposts is that they’re very springy! This makes them exceptional on off-road terrain, as they’re super responsive to bumps.

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Elastomer springs are the quiet achievers as they are much less noticeable underneath you. This is the result of elastomers having an inherently slower rebound speed after an impact, which is particularly beneficial while riding on fast, bumpy surfaces like gravel roads. You might think this doesn't really make me the best person to test the Redshift, but to be honest, I was intrigued. Adjustability: 7 out of 10. While both the seat angle and the suspension properties are adjustable, they do require tools and, in the case of the latter, removal of the seatpost from the frame. Any bag that just attaches to the saddle or just attaches to the post is fine. But when you attach to both the post and the saddle you need to account for the relative motion of the saddle to the post. This means that if you cinch down the bag when off the bike it might have some movement when you get on the saddle and compress the post a bit - this might not be a problem but it might be something that is an issue.

I prefer the CNC machined surface of the ThubBusters (i.e., the fine ribbing, the polish) of the ThudBusters to all of them. The finish is superior to any other suspension seatpost's that I've experience with. Of course, that ThudBusters' CNC machining bears no effect on its ride quality.

Internals

The easiest way to determine your steerer tube size is to use a pair of calipers to directly measure the diameter or take your bike to the local bike shop and they will be able to measure it for you. Alternatively, most of the time a manufacturer will list this under their specifications in the Frame/Fork section. Make sure you are looking at the correct model year as these sizes can change year to year.

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